The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and more than three thousand vines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by creating permanent, productive farming plots inside urban environments," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and history of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over 150 vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on